Happy Holidays RaMaBo!

Many thanks for your quick reply. I have gone through the thread twice and watched the video, mentioned by marexy. I have not yet opened the CD and Cassette fronts, but just to avoid doing anything stupid, the IR receiver board is under the cassette front, right? I am a bit anxious to go under the CD mechanism.

Hi Kay1Kar,

I've been there before: dont bother with door slapping or whatever…
Follow the Ramabo Advice, change the capacitors.

The IR board is located more or less at the rail level, on the right side.
You'll have to:
- take off the grills.
- take off the front CD and cassette fascia. Take care of the cd clamper.
- take off the screws holding the main amp PCB (heavy) on the right side, just enough to lift the IR board.
- Then disconnect the cable, almost in the blind.
- Take out the board, shoot it, note polarity of the two capacitors.
- Make a search on this forum for guidance (because some details have been already discussed here).
- Replace the capacitors.
- Sing a traditionnel danish song out loud (a traditional dance may help too).
- build back the unit (only after the previous instructions).

90% sure the unit will come back to IR life (option setting etc…)
2 hours work, 60% of the the time being taking the grills out if you never did it before.

Ramabo told me to do that long ago and I didn't want to listen to him because e you know: capacitors etc etc…
But I eventually did and it worked.

Dont bother, do it.

Godspeed.

Hi, the IR PCB is to the right of the tape and CD mechanisms in the gap between them and the amplifier and in the middle of the two mechanism plastic covers. To remove the right speaker cover remove the 2 screws on the back, and then carefully lift the plastic edge of the speaker fret up slightly so it will clear the lip it is sitting in, then slide the fret out to the right. It is held in place by a number of plastic tabs that fit under some slots, so do don't lift up, just slide it out to the right. If I recall correctly after a couple of inches of travel it becomes loose and you can then lift it off. Remove the glass door.

Remove the tape and CD plastic covers, 4 screws on each at the corners, just move them over to the left a little bit so you can see PCB 6, the IR PCB, in the gap.

The IR PCB is between the tape mechanism and the amplifier, you should see it very close to where the glass door stops when fully closed. Sometimes you can get lucky and it will lift straight up and out after you loosen the wire bundle.

It sounds like there are many steps and pieces to remove but it is actually a pretty simple procedure, likely with a much better write up that describes the disassembly on the forum somewhere.

Good luck,

Bill

Dear matador, Bill and RamaBo,

Many thanks for your detailed guidances. It is my first time joining an electronics-related forum, but I am really impressed by your responses and how generous you are with giving your time to a total stranger.

I feel much more comfortable to start this process, even though it sounds daunting on paper. The most difficult part part though has to be the learning of a Danish song!!

I guess the first step is to open the device up and see which capacitor I need to order. I will try my best and report back, when I have done the procedure. Thanks again for your kindness.

link

I guess the first step is to open the device up and see which capacitor I need to order.

The danish song is mandatory, it won't work without. The capacitors are mentioned by Ramabo earlier in this thread:

Thanks again, I have successfully found and removed the IR board. I have also ordered the capacitors. I put everything together everything just to practice a bit and it seems I am capable of doing that! The next big step is removing and smolding then new capacitors, when I receive them. I am learning a Danish song for that stage of the work!

Will report back if/when the remote starts to work. But even if it fails, I will be glad that I tried. This device is a fabulous piece of design and the more you engage with it, the more you appreciate it. I am not an expert in sound quality, but for me, an architect, the aesthetics of this thing is sublime. I always wanted one in the late 1990s, but could not afford it. Now I have a lovely one which is a radio, cassette and CD recorder. I am using a Bluetooth connector which allow me to use the device as external speakers as well. For all of that I paid £130! On top of that, thanks to you guys, I am learning a bit about electronics, which has always been alien to me.

I wish you all a very Happy New Year!

Carefully follow the procedure described by Ramabo and it will work. Remember to activate "again" the IR reception with the appropriate (I don't remember right now) procedure.

Yes the Century is a beautiful piece, I always wanted to have a working one.
If you're an Architect I would advise you to do a search on the old forum about fret reclothe: with this and and any fancy pantyhose shop, you can do miracles in terms of integration! The old forum 'flash your B&O' thread is full of gorgeous pictures of Centurys, in dark red, dark green, or any other duck blue like color that will just make you want to refurbish you interior.

Happy new year to you too and to all Beoworld members

Hi All

I’ve been reading this thread with interest.

I bought my Century from new when it first came out and have many years of total reliability, it’s always been mounted in walls so minimal moving (except house moves basically).

We’ve mainly used it with remote controls which have worked perfectly, however I now have a problem with the buttons themselves, all the functions work perfectly with the remote (so we can use it) but when you press any of the buttons physically there is no response.

Can anyone please suggest or help with a fix to this?

Regards

 

James