The setup of the BLGW and BLI is practically the same. Much easier than the MLGW -- which didn't even have direct Hue support. The BLGW/BLI basically just imports all of the info from how you programmed your Hue lights and scenes on the Hue app.

The BLGW has a couple of benefits for you, in my opinion -- in addition to the cheaper cost. With the BLGW you already have all of the control you get from updating a BLI to PRO mode. Also, the BLGW has a masterlink port. (both old style as well as the RJ45 -- so actually 2 ML ports) So you can keep a traditional ML network as well as NL devices all being used with the BLGW. The BLI did away with ML completely and has no ML port. This does not replace an NL/ML Converter. If you add an NL/ML Converter to an ML device, you are essentially turning that ML device into an NL device, which gives you all of the benefits of borrowing sources between NL devices and joining from one NL device to another.

My apologies for geting of the topic but this issue is interesting from at least one more perspecitve.

link With the BLGW you already have all of the control you get from updating a BLI to PRO mode."

From what beojeff wrote, It sounds to med that BLGW might "in generall" be a better choice for systems with both NL and ML. Is it so?

Are there any advnatages of having BLI or BLI-pro other than being future proof (at least for now)?

Tak Emil!

I’ll give that a try, indeed.

My LC’s are a mix of 1’s and 2’s….so once my Hue bulbs have arrived, I’ll start testing.
One room - where my V1 is - will stay ir, obviously.

N.B.  What exactly do you mean with warm glow -- ‘White Ambience’ or just ‘White’?

MM

Hi alls, I haven't chime in so far because having given up on the case I felt I couldn't help. But, from the tail to the tip:

• warm, ambiance and white may refer to the kelvin temperature of color : the difference between the surgical white of early led lamps and the more comfy orangish light close to tungsten lamps color…
• I've investigate the use of led lamps with LC's and what I learned, that hasn't been mentioned so far, is that there is two dimmer types: link One work with dimmable leds, the other won't. This leads to led lamps that are compatible with the sort of dimmer LC's are (can't remember which). What I remember is, in time, they where hard to find and quite expensive but it was long ago and nowadays maybe basic Phillips hue or Ikea will fall in that category.

So beside the IR/BT need and if the crazy power consumption" comes from the lamp and not the LC itself, then it may worth a Beoworld investigation to see where we are now. (Got one LC2 with a 100W spot lamp above my desk for when I swap belts on any Beocord) and it is really carefully monitored for on/off time, so I can't help further but now you know all I know.) Regards.

Just an example of the Philips light bulbs I’ve found out works with my LC2’s (and actually also with my B&O compatible Unotech Unodim).

link

BTW if someone could explain how you program the LC2 to on/off mode that would be very interesting to me.

With Beo4: (Touch the LC2 dome with your hand whilst programming) Press LIGHT, then LIST to display SETUP. Press 0, then LIST to display STORE. Press GO then 3. To return to dimming, same as above but press 4 at the end. EDIT: It's easier with BL1000:  (again touch the dome whilst programming) Login to view image (Thanks for the heads-up about the Philips bulbs. I will have a look for some)

Just to end this thread, that I started, here is how my solution became as of now.
Maybe someone with similar questions can benefit from this.

 

First a big thank you too all, who participated…

Since I am not into any kind of automation, the money for a BLI or a BLGW and the time and efford to set this up, seemed to much for me - I went for the easier solution.
As stated earlier I was only interested in a solution for having control of multiple lamps and having different light scenes in my rooms.
The ditching of the old LC1/2 with the oldschool lamps was overdue.
Not just because of energy saving, but also the fact that slowly the Beo4’s  have become Beoremote Ones (ir -> bt).
When you get a Theatre setup in the main room, Beo4’s are finally of no use anymore…..and furthermore I did not want to keep these just for the sake of having the old LC-controls (yes, I know I am late to the party).

Every old bulb/lamp that previously was B&O LC-controlled now have become Hue lights…….set up in 4 rooms here.
Luckily a new Hue controller was launched not long ago - this has 4 programmable favourite buttons and a general dimmer function, which is all I need.

Ok, it certainly is not the solution, that I would have prefered - much nicer would be to be able to use the Light functions or maybe even the MyButtons on the BROne.
However it works and it works well!

Maybe some day the coming Matter integration of the Mozart products could allow for the use of the BROne/Light controls with the Hue setup?
The Hue Bridge seems to be Matter and Thread compatiple.
Could be a nice solution for someone like me, who, ‘only’ wants to be able to control the Lights and has no need for other automation stuff.

 

Login to view image

MM