Will be curious to see any photos you might be able to take! I've just hand-delivered my US-market BL5000 to Steffen in Copenhagen for his specialized repair service. Luckily mine was only missing a few pixel rows; I was a bit nervous about opening it up in case I caused more damage...

link

Will be curious to see any photos you might be able to take! I

I will take some pictures along the way and share here.

link

I’ve just hand-delivered my US-market BL5000 to Steffen in Copenhagen for his specialized repair service. Luckily mine was only missing a few pixel rows;

I was also wondering if that was the way to go, but since one of the displays is not missing lines, I will start looking at it myself, knowing that there is a risk of damaging the display cable.

link

If both display are likely working it is more than the majority of BL500O still in use (got one myself without display) and both will deserve proper repair.

Only one of the is without missing lines, but dim, so better than not working, but not perfect.

link

About the display: you may wait for a confirmation from any other member but when I was still believing my faulty display was from bad soldier join I bought a T soldier tip fitted with some sort of rubber, made to secure the kind of bond that link the remote to the display. It was pretty cheap so maybe trying it would help someway. In my case it was the ribbon cable that was broken so the tool was of no use.

Thanks for sharing that info. I belive that is also how the forums user Steffen is fixing these, but with a new cable.

I've repaired +20 BL5K lately and my experience is that the original display ribbon will fail at some point.
There is a guy in Struer I use my self who can replace the ribbon. PM me for contact details if you go down that route.
But if you chooses not to I think that Beolover has an instruction with a 3D printed fixture.

For recap of the IR PCB, there is a guide from Leslie Nelwan at the Beoworld archive showing which caps there needs to be replaced.
link
Look a little more than half way down.

For reattach the display I use double-sided tape from RS Component after a good clean to remove the old glue.


The artefact on the display is not fixable. At least for now.

In according to the service manual the only thing there can be ajusted is the contrast of the display.

Hope the above gives you some help and mybe you could get some inspiration for this:

link

I’ve repaired +20 BL5K lately and my experience is that the original display ribbon will fail at some point. There is a guy in Struer I use my self who can replace the ribbon. PM me for contact details if you go down that route.

I'll send you a PM for details, as that might be nesesary at one point in the procces or if I choose to get both working.

link

For recap of the IR PCB, there is a guide from Leslie Nelwan at the Beoworld archive showing which caps there needs to be replaced. https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/9016/89901.aspx Look a little more than half way down.

That's great. And even greater I have all caps in stock since I bought replacements for my Beolink 7000 remote (although that did not fix 2 way on that). So might be faster that I thought to get going at recapping one of the boards.

link

For reattach the display I use double-sided tape from RS Component after a good clean to remove the old glue. https://dk.rs-online.com/web/p/skumtape-dobbeltsidet/1612919?gb=s

Nice, I guess different types of double sided tape can be used, but great to have a known working product for reference.

link

The artefact on the display is not fixable. At least for now.

Thought so. It not that visible on the display without missing lines, only when seen in certain angles, so I can live with that. The other one however has a large visible area of artefacts, so that might be the deciding factor for getting the connection to the display fixed or not.

link

In according to the service manual the only thing there can be ajusted is the contrast of the display.

Ahh yes thanks. I will try that to see if that can help on the visibility of the display :-)

link

For recap of the IR PCB, there is a guide from Leslie Nelwan at the Beoworld archive showing which caps there needs to be replaced. https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/9016/89901.aspx Look a little more than half way down.

When I replaced the capacitors in one of my BL5000s several years ago I found Leslie's post very useful, especially for the capacitor values.  I also made use of the photos from a 2010 post by 'MartinM' here:  /forum/general-discussion-and-questions/beolink-5000-no-contact-fix The photos are no longer attached, but I kept a copy - see below:

Just to add to the above, like MartinM I went for tantalum bead throughout - see my order below:

link

skolesen wrote: For recap of the IR PCB, there is a guide from Leslie Nelwan at the Beoworld archive showing which caps there needs to be replaced. https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/9016/89901.aspx Look a little more than half way down. When I replaced the capacitors in one of my BL5000s several years ago I found Leslie's post very useful, especially for the capacitor values.  I also made use of the photos from a 2010 post by 'MartinM' here:  /forum/general-discussion-and-questions/beolink-5000-no-contact-fix The photos are no longer attached, but I kept a copy - see below:

Thank you very much for that extra input and pictures. I looks like some replacements are made with tantylum capacitors instead of Elctrolytic. Not sure if it should make any difference. I Have started recapping the Beolink 5000 with missing lines in the display and are using electrolytic capacitors. For some reason I do not seem to be able to insert pictures right now thought so have attached pictures with before and after replacing capacitors. After recapping 2 way is working fine with both my Beocenter 2500 and a MCL2AV as shown on the attached picture where the volume is shown in the display. An extra question that has come up. the best set of keypads is missing the round aluminium ring, but I have that available on another set of keypads. How can this aluminium ring be removed. Is it glued down or only held in by the rubber keys?

I am not sure why you can't upload photos normally - I'll send a message to Multicare. I just dug out an old BL5000 keyboard (actually one that Beoworld member Leslie sent me many years ago) and prised out the metal circle with a guitar plectrum.  It came out quite easily, but looks like it was originally  glued in place: