Beolab 8000 turn off after some hours

35 replies
PR
Offline
Prime
Bronze
Posted February 17, 2023 at 09:47 GMT
#1653762
I see the IC1 and IC2 in your diagram. But in another scheme Ive seen, they were both called IC1? Do I need to replace both, or only the left one?
carljh
Offline
carljh
Bronze
Posted February 17, 2023 at 10:04 GMT
#1653763
That will work. You need a solder blow gun to remove the old one. Be careful to not rip off the solder pads from the PCB.

Location: Stockholm

carljh
Offline
carljh
Bronze
Posted February 17, 2023 at 10:06 GMT
#1653764
You only need to change IC1

Location: Stockholm

PR
Offline
Prime
Bronze
Posted February 18, 2023 at 12:56 GMT
#1653825
Left one? 
carljh
Offline
carljh
Bronze
Posted February 20, 2023 at 09:07 GMT
#1653886
Yes, that is correct. Good luck!

Location: Stockholm

PR
Offline
Prime
Bronze
Posted February 20, 2023 at 16:17 GMT
Edited February 20, 2023 at 16:17 GMT
#1653900
Removed it. Waiting for the new parts.

 

PR
Offline
Prime
Bronze
Posted February 23, 2023 at 09:04 GMT
Edited February 23, 2023 at 09:04 GMT
#1653987
I installed it. It turns on but the speaker is unusable. A lot of noise is coming from it even when there is nothing plugged in and it only is powered on.

did I miss something?

carljh
Offline
carljh
Bronze
Posted February 24, 2023 at 15:12 GMT
#1654020
That was bad news! It looks ok. Strange that you get noise from it because this circuit only control the auto on detection.

Location: Stockholm

FR
Offline
franjo3000
Bronze
Posted March 28, 2024 at 14:16 GMT
#1663611
Hello all, I am new member, and I have a pair of Beolab 8000s with a 11xxxx serial number of which one I believe has the same issue as discussed above:
  • when I use it with a Beolink cable, it turns on (and off) just fine
  • when I use the LINE in, it works fine for 2-3 hours, and then turns off. It does not turn on again. (only if I change to Beolink..) When I remove the wall plug and wait until the next day, it works fine again for 2-3 hours...
With turning on I mean that the light switches from red to green and it plays music. I have the disassembled speaker lying on my desk already as I am doing the foam replacement (thanks to this great forum!). I don't have electronic testing equipment other than a good multimeter. Do you think I should be going for the IC1, too? Or any other part to consider? Thank you!
MA
Offline
marexy
Silver
Posted March 29, 2024 at 08:57 GMT
#1663637
Usuly at that error there is a problem at one or more caps.

Noice or humm problems are related to bad IC.

Try to change RELE as some times rele is also bad inside.

all the best :)
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