Hi Jeff (Thanks got your e-mail this morning)

Great Great Great!

I have had good results with the Micro-mesh, I was waiting to see how this would work. Sorry for the delay but I got caught up with Christams. I have been using a number of different liquids that I have tracked down and I have got good results, but I have been told I am a bit of a pefectionist at times. I also got a final sealing spray that provides an optical glace and makes the surface more durable and scratch resistent. This I have recently applied to a lid I was sanding down with Micro-mesh and with good results.

I think we will become advisors in this field as we are obviously very interested in it and I am really interested in exchanging tips ideas between us to get the best results we can.

I would like to swap ideas with you on the best way we can go forward with this, I met with the rep from Glasgow and then started right away on using the fine mesh 12000 and worked down to the more coarse grades. It is very interesting but takes time. I am hoping that if I get this to a fine level that I could offer it as a service to repair scratches ot hazing. I have to say it is a slow process especially if you are covering a large surface area such as a BG 4000s lid.

I have also been restoring wood veneer surfaces and managed to repair the surround on a Beogram that had a bad chunk out of its corner and it looks good. but again is a patience job. I blended loads of colours and glaces to get the wood affect, well thats another storey. I have also been helping a chap from Greece to repair his Beogram 4002 and that has been interesting too.

I am hoping though that if I am happy with the results I will offer this as a service to repair restore lids etc, what you think?

 Cheers and Merry Xmas

Kevin

Ps Thanks, it is really good to work on this with like minded people.

Hi Kev,

It seems that we were both working on polishing Beogram 4000 dustcovers prior to the Christmas holidays while using the same brand products. What a coincidence.

I too was caught up in all the holiday activities, so I missed your communication. Sorry about that.

I am interested to learn how the Micro-mesh belt worked out. From the sounds of it, this process was a whole lot less work than what I attempted.

I was using the Micro-Surface “Surface restoral kit,” beginning with their 2400 grit sandpaper and progressively moving to finer grits: 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, and ultimately 8000. I used a bit of dishwashing soap as a lubricant, which seemed to work well.

This is a tedious process.

I was recently gifted with a replacement Beogram 4000 dustcover as mine had nicks that are essentially beyond removal. (Possible, but would take forever.) Plus the dustcover on my 4000 did not have the B&O logos or Danish Crown, two tasteful items that are in place on my replacement cover and much appreciated.

With a cursory view, this replacement dustcover appeared in very good shape. However, it did have a few deeper scratches that required the patience of Job to remove. Literally hours were spent on two particular scratches.

The main problem, as you know is you really can’t tell how much progress you have made while you are working on the scratch. Only after the Plexiglas is completely dry can you ascertain what progress has or has not been made.

Plus, at least in my case, there were several times that I “felt” that I have been successful in removing these deeper scratches only to find out that I had been over optimistic once I reached a high level of surface condition.

I went back once, when I found I had missed a scratch, but two other times I just decided to allow a bit of “patina.”

The 8000 grit was very good, but I imagine that I might have done even better with 10,000 and 12,000 grit.

None the less my “secret weapon” was the Griot’s random orbital polisher. Well the polisher plus their polish and Best of Show wax. This Griot polisher is the best unit I have ever found (and I have been polishing high end cars for years) and it really took care of all those tiny….tiny scratches left during the overall wet-sanding process.

The main reason this project took so long is I had just as many scratches under the dustcover as I had on top, no doubt do to storage over the years. A dustcover taken directly off a turntable is highly unlikely to have any scratches under the cover, just on top and perhaps the outer sides.

Mine had an equal amount under the cover, which was a bit harder to wet-sand and infinitely more difficult using the orbital polisher. I brushed the sides several times by accident and each time created another scuff I had to remove. “Two steps forward and one step back…”

However, the end result was really very good and I am a perfectionist, like you.

Cheers, 

Jeff

Hi Jeff

Hello yes Im glad that i got to find out about the micro-mesh, What is the Griots orbital? my own e-mail address is kevinoils@hotmail.com

If you use msn messenger you can chat to me on that as I notice the time difference.

Interestingly i got the 12000 grit in the sample the company supplied to me, what did you have in your kit and what was it called? I can imagine how the 8000 grit finnish must look but it sounds great that you got a good finnish with switching to the orbital sander polisher. I feel that the 12000 grit though taking the surface to a nice shine needs a final finnish, I am fussy lol But I looked at this surface very closley in daylight and I want to get the fine fine marks left by the 12000 smoothed out I reckon if I work this out then this will have been a complete success.

That is the stage I am at I have a nice surface which is 90% better than the way it was, now the BG 4002 lid I have sanded which was a ruined spare is better than the one I currently have on my BG4002, so they are going to be switched Hurrrah!!!. Jobs patience has worked out.

Hi Kev,

The one common thread in the various dustcover restorations is there is no quick fix. Every process seems to take a good bit of time.

As such if I had it to do over I would have exercised even MORE patience with my Beogram 4000 dustcover, perhaps even trying a courser grit, say 1800, and then not stop until each and every scratch was completely removed.

Especially had I known what a spectacular finish the Griot’s random orbital polisher would give to the final step, I definitely would have made the extra effort.

I hope that you are enjoying your time off.

Happy New Year! (This is for everyone) 🙂

Jeff

Hello Jeff   Happy New Year

 I have been lying low for a few weeks as I had what ended up being Atypical Pneumonia, so was not too great.

On the other hand I managed to get back to my polishing and I used and orbital polisher with Novus plastic clean and shine for the final buffing. It looks good and I am now going to swap the lid I have on my BG4002 for the one that was until now totally spoilt, now it looks good enough to use with a nice polish on it. The majority of the deep scratches are gone and now it has a nice shine. Thankyou for the swapping of ideas it has been great, micro mesh is definately crediteed with the removal of those deep scratches.

I am now looking at my next restoration project, to repair some damage to the top of a Beomaster 5500, some scratching and scrapes to the darker plastic surface underneath. I am looking at re spraying this with a suitable spray paint. I am about to take the case top panel so that I can take this to the shop were they stick a range of sprays. I wonder if you have any amp like this any ideas as I know you are in the car industry and probably have seen loads of re-sprays on cars.

Hope all is well and hope to hear from you soon

Cheers

Kev

Hi Derek

Help help help! I have posted here but I am looking for help with the tonaarm on Beogram 4000, while removing the stylus the black clamp came away with it and pulled out two wires one blue and one green. As far I can see there is a red and grey wire inside the arm that have came off there solder points. I really need to find out hoe to get inside this tone arm to get the wires out so they can be re-soldered.

Can you provide any advice or help!

Cheers

 Kevin

Mr Bozzo again,

  Having resolved the microprocessor I burned up re-capping my first 8002, I began restoration of the second 8002, listening to the now prisine #1 deck. My first ministration was the removal of the old/defunct dbl sided tapes that secure the aluminum platter surround, being very careful not to get any carburetor cleaner (laquer thinner basically) anywhere except on the postage stamp sized swatches of tape as I softened and scraped them from the chassis. How proud I was-this #2 TT was nearly perfect and would be a great prize-I was wondering if anal compulsive had a hyphen when I suddenly noticed 5 white spots on the dustcover of TT#1 which was just to my left playing an old Merle Haggart album (It's Not Love, But Its Not Bad-great one!). The spray tube on the Berkley 2+2 Gumcutter was overhanging TT#1 everytime I put it down and each time would drip on the dustcover, partially dissolving the acrylic. SOOOO...I guess I need coaching guys-. I'm a car guy (

I just got another BG4000 home, and the cover needs work. I'll be using the method described in detail here - it's excellent. Worked wonders on the BG4000 I use daily.

Great link soundproof I need to do this myself on 3 dustcovers soon so worth investing in the gear I think!

One thing of interest (maybe) is that model makes, when polishing clear plastic (cockpits and widows etc..) finish with 'future' floor polish to fill in any microscopic scratches etc. Results in a really superb optical finsh but there are two problems - lever have just recently changed the formula and knowone seems to think it works the same, so old stock ebay is only choice. The other point being that I am not sure if it would work the same with larger surface areas...?