I can probably find the hinge parts in the dungeons.
But check the rest of the deck first.
You need to have a record on the platter when you check it!

Martin

Your vendor did not pack the turntable correctly for transit, this is common with these turntables and is not the fault of the shipper.

I suggest that you contact the vendor and demand a refund as repair is near impossible.

Hi Martin,

thanks for your response. That could hopefully save me (partially!)

I'll keep you posted on how I get on with the rest of the deck.

thanks again,

John-Gabriel

Hi Graham,

thanks for your reply.

Yes it was indeed the fault of the vendor. We came to an agreement for a partial refund, as I was hopeful/desperate to get the thing going again. 

Which part of the repair is near impossible?

Best,

John-Gabriel

The hinges are fixed to the base by set screws that are inserted into threaded inserts moulded into the base material. The plastic surrounding the inserts breaks and the insert becomes loose.

Is this why your hinges are loose? 

Hello - it's the plastic tubular pieces in the back corners of the deck, in which the brass screws sit in, which have broken - without taking the body of the deck apart, I'm imagining these are part of something bigger 🙁

see photo... Login to view image

I just had a deck with the same problem on the bench here,.
Strong 2-comp. epoxy glue is what you need. I like to use Araldite Standard, the white/blue slow setting type.
If you cannot glue the brass insert back into the plastic chassis and add some support, you can simply glue the
metal bracket to the deck surface.

Martin

This exactly the area that I am attempting to describe in my post.

It is impossible to expose any more of the broken part without completely wrecking the deck.

One suggestion that worked for me on a number of occasions is to buy a cosmetically challenged and cheap Beogram 5005 or similar brushed aluminium deck and build your 6500 parts into it.

NB All type 59xx decks are the same under the skin (some early examples do not have fixing points for the RIAA preamplifier) .

Hi Martin - thanks for the tip. I will look into carefully re-affixing the broken plastic parts with araldite.

Graham - this could also be a good avenue, I'll keep my eyes peeled for one...

Would you guys know anybody who could undertake the work? I also have the problem of the arm not moving, and don't know why this is. I'd happily pay somebody to get it up and running again...

thank you both for all of your help so far!