Everything is in perfect condition in terms of mechanical.  Its metal, the 8002 did away with plastic ones.  

If I touch the magnets I can feel the vibration from them.  

The platter spins forever (new lube) it only makes noise with power.    The magnets are not putting out enough of a field I think.  Which leads me to think they are getting improper current.  But I am just guessing here.   I know there are 8002 pros here just need one to help out.

If all mechanics are fine and the black subplatter is not scraping on the bottom plate the Beogram is most likely in need
of electronic repairs in the form of fresh capacitors and a good check for cracked solder joints.

Martin

No its not scraping,  just lacks power.  

I did buy one of those capacitor kits.   Its still in the bag.

I have 3.5 8002s.   Only one of them is working right now.  

1.  Perfect - was serviced.

2. Almost perfect - has bad solder joint on the power pins.

3. This one I'm working on.  Probably the best cosmetically, came with new MMC1.   But the guy that sold it to me from his estate sale failed to mention it was missing its springs.

4.  Parts unit.

Yea someone that did not know what they were doing took all the springs off from the top.   The belt was there but off the spindle.  It was missing two of the little pegs that held the leaf springs too.   Not sure what they were thinking.  I could see gauge marks where one spring was so it was like they tried to disassemble it from the outside vs opening it up in service mode.

I rummaged through my parts and pounded out the pegs from my parts units with a punch, got some spare springs off it and also the clips.

Lubed it all up, put the belt back on and fired it up.

Everything seems a go but weak power to the platter.  

Probably needs a cap job.   I found a guy (he is busy) that repairs musicans amps, etc.   He said he would be willing to do that cap kit but I don't think he has ever done a B&O before.    I know he has good solder skills, and the equipment, I trust him more then me with a solder gun.

The MMC 1 is perfect, tested in on my working unit.  So all in all not bad. I paid 300.00 for it, the cart alone was worth that.

Sorry I got DC during this post and redid it.  Then I find its a double post so please delete this.  Thanks

I notice the last two digits of 33.33 are blinking very fast during play.   And the platter has a vibration to it.  (its not scraping)

On my working 8002 those .33 digits are rock steady and only blink when you try to slow the platter with a hand or cleaning a record.  

So it appears the cpu is trying to correct speed errors but it can't quite deliver the proper current.  

I hope a cap kit fixes it.  

Anyone else have this issue on a 8002 that was fixed with caps?

Hi Rajod,

On the Beogram 8000 and 8002 turntables, if you experience any odd behavior with the operations, it is likely the result of something involving the circuit board(s). It can be as simple as a solder connection or a capacitor. Those circuit boards have a lot on them so I have been approaching them as I need to do everything - recap the electrolytic capacitors and resolder the connector joints. You can easily test the circuit board with the turntable assembly outside of the Beogram chassis too (as I did in a Beogram 8000 here). I think that makes it easier. You can even substitute your "good" board with that setup to verify the problem is (or isn't) the board.

I have seen the blinking speed indicator LEDs and the vibration when the turntable is having problems locking in the speed. It should go away when the board is reworked and the turntable is adjusted properly. If it continues to happen after that them there might be a problem with the opto detector on the tachodisc. Or the signal from it back to the processor.

-sonavor

Good to hear from you sonavor!

I see you are busy with new projects.   I wish I had your soldering skills and equipment.   For now I have to search for someone like you in my area.    I found one but he is very busy fixing musicians band equipment.    when he has some time I going to drive one of my 8002s over to him and have him install that cap kit.    I am pretty good with the mechanics of them now.  I've torn one down.  

I am hesitant in messing around with my one good one, swapping out boards.   I have 2 almost working ones in perfect cosmetic condition plus a 4th parts one.  

Maybe sometime down the road I will buy a nice solder iron and get good.  But at this point I think its wiser for me to pay someone with 30 years of soldering under their belt.

I was reading one of your posts on how you took apart the opto sensor to get to the disc.   I almost made that same error but I looked at it and thought "No way, im going to break something poping off those little tabs"  so I asked around and I think Dillon told me about that lever that moves it out of the way so you can pop it off for oiling or disc replacement.

I am happy that you were able to do it "The hard way" without breaking it.