BeoGram 6000 - Tonearm/Tracking problem

22 replies
GG
Offline
Gravity Graham
Bronze
Posted February 27, 2023 at 03:19 GMT
#1641971
Having given up on my 4000, I have decided to work on the BG6000 which I have.
It runs well, and drops when it should, and can be run forwards and backwards with no problems.
The silent cct works OK, because sound comes out of the t/t when in play.
However, it is not tracking and requires the motor to be moved manually, in order to prevent it getting stuck in one groove.
I'm probably missing something, but I can't seem to find any guidance in the manual ???
Any advice will be appreciated !!

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982.
Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.
Mark-sf
Offline
Mark-sf
Bronze
Posted February 27, 2023 at 18:28 GMT
#1654151
There is a bulb ? n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.
GG
Offline
Gravity Graham
Bronze
Posted February 27, 2023 at 21:10 GMT
#1654160
Mark-sf wrote:
There is a bulb n a plastic housing at the tonearm base that burns out and we replace with an LED kit. You can see if it’s lit. If it is there is a shutter adjustment in the manual. It’s the same for the 4xxx series.
Silly question - What is the identity number on the circuit diagram ?
Regards - Gravity G.

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982.
Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.
Mark-sf
Offline
Mark-sf
Bronze
Posted February 28, 2023 at 03:10 GMT
#1654176
It is OIL1; however, that is not as important as its location which can’t be determined by the schematic since it is not board mounted. It is under a black plastic cover held by two brass screws directly to the right of the damping cylinder.
GG
Offline
Gravity Graham
Bronze
Posted February 28, 2023 at 04:42 GMT
#1654177
Thanks Mark - found it !  Will check it later today !

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982.
Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.
GG
Offline
Gravity Graham
Bronze
Posted February 28, 2023 at 21:10 GMT
#1654195
OK Mark - checked it and it's lit.  However I now have a different problem, with motor control....
It does everything except return or Stop !
I suppose the next thing is to remove the main board, and check the Darlington pairs & diodes !!  Onwards and upwards as they say !!
Any known problems with this model ??

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982.
Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.
Mark-sf
Offline
Mark-sf
Bronze
Posted February 28, 2023 at 21:58 GMT
#1654196
When you say “return and stop” do you mean if you press Stop during play it does not return or only at the end of the record? If the later that is typically a leaf switch problem as these easily corrode or get out of adjustment. Do either the “>” or “>>” work when the are is cued up? If they don’t then I would look at the electronics focusing on the caps first.
GG
Offline
Gravity Graham
Bronze
Posted March 1, 2023 at 14:06 GMT
#1654207
Hi Mark, I can cue forward (< or <<), but not return (> or >>).
If I press STOP, it does stop - but does not return.
When it reaches the centre of the TT, it stops, but again refuses to return.
At least on this the electronics can be unplugged for testing, unlike the 4000 !
I think you may be right about the caps - might start by replacing all electrolytics as they are a good 30 years old !!
Tks - Graham

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982.
Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.
Mark-sf
Offline
Mark-sf
Bronze
Posted March 1, 2023 at 23:41 GMT
#1654227
Actually, those caps are almost 50yrs old so they definitely are a recommended starting point! I would then check closely for the listed voltages on the transistors in the servo motor circuit as it could be a bad transistor, diode or simply a broken solder joint or trace.
GG
Offline
Gravity Graham
Bronze
Posted March 8, 2023 at 08:02 GMT
#1654381
Work is progressing slowly !  The power supply electrolytics have been replaced, but still awaiting delivery of electrolytics to replace all the Tantalum capacitors on the PCB's, before I proceed any further.  I may take the time to remove and check the transistors and diodes in the motor circuit...

Location: Cornwall, UK

Obtained HND in Electronics Engineering in 1982.
Retired in 2016, and am still 'tinkering'. Have had my Beogram 4000 and BeoMaster 1900-2 since 1984.
or
BeoWorld Gold Membership card
Join BeoWorld

Register to access the forums, reference material, and exclusive member benefits — including our monthly prize draw.

Become a Member

December 2026 Prize Draw

Gold Members Only

As a Gold member you're automatically entered into our exclusive prize draw — your chance to win iconic Bang & Olufsen products. A unique benefit of BeoWorld Gold membership, every draw brings a new opportunity to win something special.

View Prize Go For Gold