Sounds like photoconductor part on left side of arm is malfunctioning

Sorry for the late answer, I didn't have the time to see after this thread last week.

As for the photoconductor part: you might very well be right, but when I had the chance to get another donor (a Beogram 5500) for quite cheap, I decided to extract the central parts from it (I would have liked the complete unit to fit the turntable better to the rest of my Beosystem 5500, but it wasn't in the best of shapes visually) and now the turntable works flawlessly.

At least, that's what I assume not having connected it to the Beomaster (it's midnight, after all), but since turntables still make a tiny little sound of their own during playback, it plays fine, the arm moves and lifts just as it should, so I can happily go to bed now and dream of the hours of vinyl listening that lie ahead 🤩 😐

So thanks for all your help, and good night.  😁

Being a knife edge bearing, so to speak, the replacement piece should come to quite a defined point, otherwise there will be too much lateral friction. This could damage your stylus / stylus suspension prematurely. At the very least I would think it would effect the sound to some extend.

I used a bit of tin plate to repair one once. Took ages to get it perfectly set up but my mum still uses the player to this day and it works very well :) The major issue was getting the correct glue to stick to the plastic!

Step1 wrote:

Being a knife edge bearing, so to speak, the replacement piece should come to quite a defined point, otherwise there will be too much lateral friction. This could damage your stylus / stylus suspension prematurely. At the very least I would think it would effect the sound to some extend.

I used a bit of tin plate to repair one once. Took ages to get it perfectly set up but my mum still uses the player to this day and it works very well :) The major issue was getting the correct glue to stick to the plastic!

You mean that "pin"? Yes, you are right, I was thinking that too, and that's why I did not use some screw there (as in end  point of cord in carriage).

Steel axis I put there was, if I can remember, saved from some old cd-rom, it is polished steel, so minimium fraction there, also it is positioned as good as I could in a way that contactpoint to pivot leads to original position.

Would be intresting to see picture from your solution, but you don't have one?

Yes I have Ovara, the first attempt I used a stanly blade which had its edge blunted and round off slightly, just to prevent cutting into the plastic!

This wouldn't stick unfortunately, so I cut some sheet metal, same treatment to the edge but this time more securely attached - I wasn't happy with the appearance but it works (still to this day) well enough...

Obviously things were trimmed and tidied a little bit even so it looked rough, works well though!

I also had to rebuild the lip that stops the arm being able to lift off the bearings. Interestingly, while the bearing had been trashed in transit there were no other signs to show it had been roughly transported which was a bonus!

That looks like a good idea. Maybe I have to try something based on this for that other, not yet fixed, arm.

First thing comes in mind is to find alternative for glueing...

I'm glad to see my thread is helping others too 🙂

Some of you really know how to work with tools, I wouldn't even have the tools to do such delicate work (I do have accumulated quite a variety of tools already, but none for such fine work, as I don't have a room to do such work anyway).

But I wondered if anyone knew who made those triangular pins, as I would be surprised - though it might be possible considering the pricing - if they were made exclusively for B&O, as there might be some other use for them too (I admit, I can't think of any, but then I'm a cartographer, not an engineer 😕 ). So, if the manufacturer could be found out, there might be a source for those pins, or at least some surplus production or something. I'm just curious because I'm somehow sentimental about those things, I don't like the idea of donor equipment too much, as it means, another device has to be definitely put out of possible working condition. Yeah, I know... ❓

Almost certainly made specifically for these decks! Not exactly an exotic part and quite easy to make... Your best bet might be to look for a scrap deck but why not get some tin metal, a file, some scissors and glue and give the repair a go yourself!?! It is fiddly to get just right, but if you are on a budget this method works very well!