Well, actually my 5005 is lower on the left than the right.

Please read my previous post, I'm becoming confused about what and how to check.

I'd sure appreciate some guidance/assistance/help. 

Thanks. 

Unfortunately I don't have the repair manuals nor have I ever seen one of these machines myself, but a switch should be just a switch. If it reads anything else than open loop or 0 ohms depending on the position, there has to be something wrong with it (BTW, be careful when measuring! Some cartridges might not like the measurement current of some multimeters, the windings are unbelievably delicate!).

I'd probably find out from the service manuals whether the switch is open or closed when the player is playing, take the switch out and then add the appropriate jumper wires. Leave the hair thin wires coming from the tone arm alone if you can.

I believe the switch contacts have corroded and make bad contact. The muting switch I know (in my Beocenter 2800) was just an open slider and indeed required cleaning. Relays and switches that actually switch any significant current are somewhat self cleaning due to the current that flows through them, but that effect won't help with the miniscule current a cartridge is sourcing. With some persistance, It might be possible to crack the switch open, clean the contacts and still put it back together in working condition, but I believe that's more like the stuff that restorers of 1920's radios are doing... these micro switches must still be available somewhere.

thanks tournedos, I've sent you an email.

I need to be advised on the best/correct way to remove the old switch from the PCB and next jump which terminals on the PCB.

Thanks. 

UPDATE : I've now doused the muting switch with contact cleaner, then tested between the terminals suggested in the service manual.

Switch depressed - 0 ohms, no change there.

Switch out - 1m ohm rising to OL

Throwing caution to the wind I've now disassembled the switch. There is a metal cover, dab painted on one side. The metal cover will move in an arc aprox. 20 degrees either way. This must be for other applications, not B & O.

Once removed, there is a lever/tab each side which wil gain access to the workings of the switch. There is a spring in the centre and on the white switch protrusion ( I'm not good with correct nomenclature in this field ) are two sets of dual pronged terminals.

When the switch is depressed, it contacts with what looks like a bar in the base of the switch. I'm in the proces of cleaning this thoroughly, then reassembling to test once more.

If I don't get a result this time round, than I'd appreciate someone looking at the  wiring diagram ( I'll send it to you if you don't have one ) and advising me to bridge which terminals on the PCB for the ultimate removal of the muting switch from the PCB.

Whilst an electrical novice, I'd like to think I have skills in other areas which can prove useful. I'm not afraid to have a go at repairing this. From other posts I've perused noone else has dismantled a muting switch........

If I can get any sort of decent image of the component parts of the microswitch I'll post it on here. 

Thanks, I'll look forward to hearing from you.All the best during this festive season and for 2008 too !

Okay, I give in on making the switch operate.

Could someone please show me which wires to bridge to cut the muting switch out of the circuit. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems to me that if the switch is out of the picture, then there is nothing to impede the signal - is that correct ?

The switch appears to operate in such a way that when in " play " mode, the switch is in the OL position, or fully out, therefore if the switch is negated, removed or neutered  the situation doesn't change.

Spent serious time with this thing now. 

Thanks. 

Here's a couple of images of the switch pulled apart. It is not that difficult to dismantle, or reassemble.

It would be great if there is a tech person out there who can confirm my thoughts on the removal of the switch, ie if the switch is removed, the muting circuit does no longer operate, but all else should work fine.

Thanks, I look forward to any replies. 

Seconded. The switch is connected a bit funny, but from what I can tell it short circuits the cartridge together in versions without a built-in RIAA preamp, and shorts the midpoints of a filter stage to ground in versions with built-in preamp. In either case, simply leaving the switch out should eliminate this possibility for channel mismatch.

Anyway, keep the volume low when experimenting. I don't know why B&O uses these muting circuits when all the others I've seen don't, but it's possible that the decks make a louder than normal "pop" when lowering/lifting the stylus. Or maybe it's there just for perfection... 

The switch might also double as a counterpressure for the mechanism, do consider that too before throwing it away.

Well, it's been a long time since I've addressed this issue here, but now the problem is all gone in my workflow of digitizing vinyl to WAV files

I admit being a noob when it comes to how these old amps work, and as there was bridging between the line in and line outs I used the headphone jack for listening and digitizing my vinyl collection. It was with the headphone jack that I noticed the channel balance error that I described when I started this topic.

Now, I just acquired two Genelec 8030 speakers and as they are active I removed the metal links, to disconnect the preamp from the  poweramp and use the line out for the speakers (can't use the speaker outputs obviously since those 8030's are active speakers). Now, using the line out, the channels are in absolute even balance as measured with Audacity when I digitized vinyls today.

So, something's wrong with the headphone output but that doesn't matter anymore to me as I've got around it :-)