Quite bubbly top bearing ..

Nice work.

But you really need to use oil with the right additives.

Originally SAE30 was used and that will of course be fine, though I do find the modern version(s) a little tough running in some motors, perhaps
the viscosity is a little too high.

I like to use Mobil Velocite 6, so far it has not let me down.

If you remove the remains of the old and dry oil (24h acetone bath, stirred every now and then) before adding fresh, it would be an even better and
longer lasting result.

Martin

Thanks, Martin,

Will try that on the next one.

Just out of interest, I'm not currently contemplating carrying out this activity, how much vacuum is required to perform the infusion? Is there a minimum for a longer period? Or is it simply a given negative pressure that must be attained before the air will start to be leeched out? 

It's not a lot, really.
The more of the old and dry oil you can get out of the material the easier will it be to suck air out.
It's when the vacuum is released again, that the fresh oil draws into the material because of the vacuum that has built up in there.

Martin

I agree with all that Martin suggests.  I did my first oil infusion surgery on my 4002 this last weekend.  Fortunately for me, I have access to a very powerful vacuum chamber at work that can pull down to 0.003 mbars.  I put my bearings in that chamber and it took about an hour and a half to complete, which was about an hour longer than I thought it would take.  The higher the vacuum, the faster it goes.

And while I'm here, a comment on bearing installation.  When I put my motor back together the armature did not turn as freely by hand.  I had read about screw tightness on the shell making a difference, but honestly that should not be the controlling factor.  The bearings can "swivel" to make alignment with the motor shaft.  This does not guarantee that the bearings are in perfect alignment after assembly.  They are held tight enough in the housing that they can easily be held a little out of axis to the shaft and cause extra friction (pulling more amps).  Re-tightening the 3 shell screws will make small adjustments to the bearing alignment but it is purely hit-and-miss.  My solution was to hold the motor in one hand and sharply rap its side against my alternate palm... or against a surface like a running shoe sole.  Firm, but not too hard to break anything.  Rap it a couple times on its side and then rotate on axis several degrees and rap again.  After doing this several times turn the shaft by hand and see if it runs more freely.  In my case it was a dramatic improvement and turned much easier than before I took the motor apart.  The rapping "slams" the shaft against the bearing inner surfaces and forces the bearings into perfect alignment.  If you don't do this the motor will most likely pull excessive current and that is not good on the motor or electronics.  Do not depend on the bearings to wear in over time as that will only cause damage.

Hello. I am a newbee here and I am pondering oiling the  spindle shaft. This video that you refer to , where can I find it? I tried Beolover.com but found nothing there. Is there no way to access the bearing without taking the motor apart? I have  a 1203 and a 1202 I guess both can benefit from a relube.

Thanks Erik

Welcome!

You need to take the motor apart. Regardless of the model and motor type.
It would be impossible to clean out the bearings. The rest of the motor, the coil windings in particular, wouldn't like the acetone bath, and the rest of
the motor would be difficult to clean from oil if you submerge it as a complete assy. It would be a huge mess.
Besides, the running surfaces of the bearings would be blocked by the spindle.

It's not that difficult to do it right, if you have some DIY-skills.
If you don't see yourself as a DIY-person, you could choose to leave the job to someone who is.

Martin