Pete,

Welcome to Beoworld !

I can supply the metal tachodisc. It's an exact repro part in stainless
steel, precisely fabricated to the hysterical tolerances needed to get it right.
PM me for details.

Does the servo motor try to rotate ?
Does it rotate if you take off the belt ?

Martin

Thanks very much Martin.  

I spent the day resoldering the PCB, cleaning parts, and replacing some capactors. Now the 8000 functions,  imperfectly, but it sets the cartridge down on the record. That's progress!

But, the tonearm moves inward every time it drops down.  Goes up, then when you hit Play, it moves towards the center of record about 5-6mm.  And it is not parallel with sensor bar when in up position. I see screw but will not attempt adjustments yet.  

I thought my DIN adapter would just plug into the back connector but apparently the terminals are different. So I really haven't heard music out of this TT yet. I need B&O's proprietary cable?

thanks to all who can advise.

Pete

Well, I seem to have figured out how to get the tonearm to work properly, scouring this forum as a resource. I adjusted the detector arm screw to the rear left. Now the two arms are parallel and the tone arm is dropping properly. It does seem to drop a bit fast, hard on the MMC 20CL.

I heard hum only, no music when connecting the DIN to phono of my amp, so i decided to adapt a pair of RCA phono jacks directly out of the back of the TT, bypassing the relay and DIN female plug.  Still no music, only hum.  Seems like the phono path is the absolute simplest circuit on this thing, yet it is the one thing that prevents my getting music from the cartridge on the record.  Grounded in the tonearm?  I'm stumped.

Pete

Nice progress so far! Good on you doing research and I assume using the search function!

You haven't mentioned what your amp is...

Are you certain it has an RIAA built in? The BG8000 does not ...before messing w/ the leads.

Short of that, has the cartridge been tested and known to be good?

The relay cannot break the connections from the cartridge to the DIN socket.
It can merely ground the signals.
Does it click apprx one second after the tonearm has landed on the record ?

Martin

The relay clicks normally, but I unsoldered the phono wires from the relay/DIN board, bypassing any problem there.  Ran direct to RCAs.

It appears my 20CL cartridge, with the sapphire cantilever, which I used on another B&O table, so I know it once worked, has no continuity.  It may have suffered a fall in a move, I haven't used it in 2 years.  Using tiny probes on the inside back, I tested for connection and there is none. Internal windings broken? The whole point of this project was predicated on having a ready system, if I could get the table running well, which i did.  Oh well, I won't spend hundred$ on a cart so I'll see if a used one turns up. I have found several at various local sales over the years, but sold them w/ tables. 

Cheers,

Pete

Wow, I've been trying to find out how or where to get my 8000 up and running again.  I'm really happy to have found this forum.   Speaking of hundreds of $'s to get it fixed, I was quoted $650 to get mine going!

Pete if you don't mind, I'd like to ask a few questions after I start opening my 8000 up.

My 8000 has always been finicky, but with a little button mashing would eventually work.  I found that pressing the "turn" for a few seconds followed by the "start" would almost always get it going.  As long as I used it on a regular basis it worked well.

A few days ago after not using it for a few weeks I tried to start it up and after the above mentioned sequence it would started up as normal, played a few seconds and then abruptly picked up the cart and returned to the off position.  When I tried to restart it it only moved the arm(s) a fraction and the light on the sensor arm would flash on (along with the rpm readout "00.00") then off.  After several seconds you could hear a small noise and get the flashing again.  And that's pretty much all it will do now.

Any thoughts on where to start would be appreciated.  By the way I don't mean to thread-jack, this just seemed to be the best place to start.

Thanks in advance,

ross

I'm not really the person to ask, there are others here far more experienced. I have worked on many TTs, but only a couple B&Os, such as old 3000, and 1200.  For this Beogram 8000, I used general electrical knowledge from working on tube and SS amplifiers and gear.  The advice repeated over and over here on this forum from generous expert Martin and others is to remove PCB and resolder cracked joints around the board. In my case, most were at the transformer connection. I replaced power supply capacitors and few others; seemed to help.  It's complicated to disassemble, not for the faint-of-heart.  Read as many posts on the Beogram forum as you can.

I'm sure someone will jump in a offer suggestions.

Best of luck, 

Pete

anyone have a crummy old MMC 20E to sell or trade, so I can at least hear music from this table?

Ross,
Welcome to Beoworld !

Sounds like your Beogram has one or more of the standard issues.
You can read A LOT about this if you do a search in the fora as Pete suggests but I
can also line the most common faults in the Beogram 6006, 8000 and 8002 up here:

- Capacitors. They dry out and/or leak.
A kit is available for convenience. Should be replaced in all decks.

- Tachodisc. That's the optical speed encoder disc that sits around the hub under the
platter and black subplatter.
If you have the photographic (printed plastic) type, the pattern will be falling
apart causing unstable platter rotation (wow), humming from the motor and
in severe cases flashing display digits.
New repro tachodiscs in stainless steel are available.
If your tachodisc is already a metal type, there's no need to replace it.

- Subplatter scraping on the floating chassis due to breakage of the tiny nylon
insert in the platter hub main bearing. This happens if the Beogram was transported (or shipped)
with the heavy platter installed. (Always pack the platter separately - wrap it in bubblewrap and place it
under the Beogram in the shipping carton!).
Repro nylon part available.

- Cracked solder joints. Especially in the power supply area, at the edge connectors and
ribbon cable and at the processor socket.

- Carriage binds due to wrong and/or dried out lubricants on the threaded shaft and
carriage bushings.

- Worn servo motor belt.
Also available.

PM me for parts details.

Martin