Location: Denmark
My Beocenter 9500 Restoration
45 replies
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
So I have spent quite a few hours getting the BC9500 up and running.
I first re-stuck the upper glass panel. I used the 'gluing' technique as this has worked well for me in the past. I cleaned up the panel and plastic surrounds, leaving the old 2-sided tape in-situ and merely brushing off the loose bits of perished tape. I then placed the glass panel face down on a totally flat surface. I fixed the two end (U shaped) pieces of plastic first, because this enables you to then centre the middle strips and leave an equal small gap each side. I simply spread a thin bead of Loctite Super Glue Gel along the centre of the tape on the reverse of the glass panel, and then firmly pressed the plastic strips into place, holding each for about 30 seconds. When you do the centre strips it is important to note that they are not interchangeable - the one closest to the centre panel has a chamfer along its edge.
Here's the glue that I used - I needed both 3g tubes to glue the complete upper glass:
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I then moved onto the CD door strings. First I tried simply replacing the broken plastic slider from the earlier photo. Although I managed this successfully, the door would stick when opening and closing. I then removed both strings and gave the entire system a good clean - rollers, drive shaft and sliding grooves. Upon re-assembly it still stuck!
Whilst observing the door opening and closing with the BeoCenter in the service position, I then noticed that the upper CD string was fouling on the drive shaft. I think the string was sticky/greasy (perhaps it had been 'lubricated'?) and was sticking to the drive shaft. Basically it couldn't slide axially, hence the three loops moved to the outer edge of the drive shaft and then started wrapping over itself and jamming.
Anyway, I decided to replace the strings and thankfully this cured the fault. The door is still slower than the tape door but this is to be expected because the door also moves the CD clamper mechanism in and out. I also cleaned and lubricated this mechanism to make the door's task easier.
Many thanks to Beitie for the inspiration and also for his invaluable tip about painters tape which is very useful for holding ends of the string in tension whilst re-threading the rollers.
One other thing I found useful was using a small bulldog clip to hold one of the sliders in place whist re-threading the string on the other side. You can see it in this photo:
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Also, just as I was finishing my wife noticed the difficulty of the task, went upstairs to her craft box and came back with these 'crossing lock' tweezers, which would have been very useful several hours earlier to move the tiny knotted ends of the drive cord into place! I will use these next time!
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Anyway, it's now all re-assembled and up and running, but I will test it over the next few days before taking back to my mother-in-law. I am using the A2 Active as a speaker connected to one of the Powerlink sockets.
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I first re-stuck the upper glass panel. I used the 'gluing' technique as this has worked well for me in the past. I cleaned up the panel and plastic surrounds, leaving the old 2-sided tape in-situ and merely brushing off the loose bits of perished tape. I then placed the glass panel face down on a totally flat surface. I fixed the two end (U shaped) pieces of plastic first, because this enables you to then centre the middle strips and leave an equal small gap each side. I simply spread a thin bead of Loctite Super Glue Gel along the centre of the tape on the reverse of the glass panel, and then firmly pressed the plastic strips into place, holding each for about 30 seconds. When you do the centre strips it is important to note that they are not interchangeable - the one closest to the centre panel has a chamfer along its edge.
Here's the glue that I used - I needed both 3g tubes to glue the complete upper glass:
Login to view image
I then moved onto the CD door strings. First I tried simply replacing the broken plastic slider from the earlier photo. Although I managed this successfully, the door would stick when opening and closing. I then removed both strings and gave the entire system a good clean - rollers, drive shaft and sliding grooves. Upon re-assembly it still stuck!
Whilst observing the door opening and closing with the BeoCenter in the service position, I then noticed that the upper CD string was fouling on the drive shaft. I think the string was sticky/greasy (perhaps it had been 'lubricated'?) and was sticking to the drive shaft. Basically it couldn't slide axially, hence the three loops moved to the outer edge of the drive shaft and then started wrapping over itself and jamming.
Anyway, I decided to replace the strings and thankfully this cured the fault. The door is still slower than the tape door but this is to be expected because the door also moves the CD clamper mechanism in and out. I also cleaned and lubricated this mechanism to make the door's task easier.
Many thanks to Beitie for the inspiration and also for his invaluable tip about painters tape which is very useful for holding ends of the string in tension whilst re-threading the rollers.
One other thing I found useful was using a small bulldog clip to hold one of the sliders in place whist re-threading the string on the other side. You can see it in this photo:
Login to view image
Also, just as I was finishing my wife noticed the difficulty of the task, went upstairs to her craft box and came back with these 'crossing lock' tweezers, which would have been very useful several hours earlier to move the tiny knotted ends of the drive cord into place! I will use these next time!
Login to view image
Anyway, it's now all re-assembled and up and running, but I will test it over the next few days before taking back to my mother-in-law. I am using the A2 Active as a speaker connected to one of the Powerlink sockets.
Login to view image
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Wow! Very well detailed, and so cool that you had replacement door kit parts! Thank you so much for documenting this process, and glad that you got it going!
I like the clip you used to keep the sliders in place. I had used painters tape, but neat to see other methods. The cross tweezers is nice. I found that a nice hook tool and tweezers were must haves for this job.
I like the clip you used to keep the sliders in place. I had used painters tape, but neat to see other methods. The cross tweezers is nice. I found that a nice hook tool and tweezers were must haves for this job.
Location: Minnesota, USA
My B&O Icons:
I had some free time this weekend, and I wanted to spend some of that time exploring more on my Beocenter 9500. The first thing I wanted to take care of was the center mirror panel. The last time I buttoned this item up, I noticed that the upper left screw was not threading into anything.
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Luckily I found the threaded part laying on the PCB below the hole. I put a few drops of super glue onto the outside of it, and put it back into it's home. I noticed that there was some cloth tape covering the hole so that this item shouldn't have been able to fall out, but the adhesive on the tape was dried and the tape was brittle. I re-covered the back side of the hole with some painters tape for now. Along with the super glue, this should be good for another 30 years I hope.
I was hopeful that this would somehow allow my Beocenter to power back on, but no such luck in that department.
I spent a little time with a multimeter probing the power transformer. While I understand electricity very well (I work at a generator factory, and calibrate meters for a living) I find schematics so busy and they trigger ADHD in me so that I cannot focus on one thing.
That all said, I was finding voltages on all spots that I expected. So more exploration will need to be done.
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Luckily I found the threaded part laying on the PCB below the hole. I put a few drops of super glue onto the outside of it, and put it back into it's home. I noticed that there was some cloth tape covering the hole so that this item shouldn't have been able to fall out, but the adhesive on the tape was dried and the tape was brittle. I re-covered the back side of the hole with some painters tape for now. Along with the super glue, this should be good for another 30 years I hope.
I was hopeful that this would somehow allow my Beocenter to power back on, but no such luck in that department.
I spent a little time with a multimeter probing the power transformer. While I understand electricity very well (I work at a generator factory, and calibrate meters for a living) I find schematics so busy and they trigger ADHD in me so that I cannot focus on one thing.
That all said, I was finding voltages on all spots that I expected. So more exploration will need to be done.
Location: Minnesota, USA
My B&O Icons:
Hi Beitie and others.
Today I'm standing at the same point as you , some months earlier - at the beginning to restaurate and repare a BeoCenter 9000' with 2 BeoVox RL60.1.
For the first check it works fine enough - Tape, Radio, Lights, ... CD dont works, also IR-RemoteControl dont works. BeoLink 1000 still works (transmit), but no reaktion on the receiving side. I will see in the next time what's necessary to do.
My question today is: what is the function and the connection for each of the 4-pin-connection-Speaker plugs; and also the different function and connection of the 3-pin-speaker plugs and at least the function of the (relais) 'Line In/Out'-Plug ? (I dont have this plug.)
Is the plug only to switch the contacts behind, like a headphone-jack which stops the Speaker-Output ? Or is it like a bridge while connecting two sides. And what is the reason for it ? To stop the amplifier on Speaker 1 ? Why ? I have the circuit-diagram, but I cant find an answer ;-). I dont understand this little, tricky part.
Perhaps there is anyone who can explain it for me.
Thanks !
Bodo
Today I'm standing at the same point as you , some months earlier - at the beginning to restaurate and repare a BeoCenter 9000' with 2 BeoVox RL60.1.
For the first check it works fine enough - Tape, Radio, Lights, ... CD dont works, also IR-RemoteControl dont works. BeoLink 1000 still works (transmit), but no reaktion on the receiving side. I will see in the next time what's necessary to do.
My question today is: what is the function and the connection for each of the 4-pin-connection-Speaker plugs; and also the different function and connection of the 3-pin-speaker plugs and at least the function of the (relais) 'Line In/Out'-Plug ? (I dont have this plug.)
Is the plug only to switch the contacts behind, like a headphone-jack which stops the Speaker-Output ? Or is it like a bridge while connecting two sides. And what is the reason for it ? To stop the amplifier on Speaker 1 ? Why ? I have the circuit-diagram, but I cant find an answer ;-). I dont understand this little, tricky part.
Perhaps there is anyone who can explain it for me.
Thanks !
Bodo
Tape, Radio/Tuner, Lights, Ampifier ... works ! The other parts (CD, IR-Remote) dont works.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Wow - quick reaction !!! Many Thanks !!!!! Like to drink a pint with me next time ?
OK, I read and understand your answers and the also the helpfull link to the additional pins on the speaker-connection. Thanks for that.
The function of the 'Line In/Out'-plug is also understand - but ... is it only a plastic pin which presses the inside contacts together, or an electrical connection - for example a jack plug whose 2 contacts be short-circuited ? --> I'm looking for alternative if I dont can get such original plug.
And the IR remote control .... I will try quickly and I will tell you. Promised !
OK, I read and understand your answers and the also the helpfull link to the additional pins on the speaker-connection. Thanks for that.
The function of the 'Line In/Out'-plug is also understand - but ... is it only a plastic pin which presses the inside contacts together, or an electrical connection - for example a jack plug whose 2 contacts be short-circuited ? --> I'm looking for alternative if I dont can get such original plug.
And the IR remote control .... I will try quickly and I will tell you. Promised !
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