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Master Control Panel 5500

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Beitie
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Beitie posted on Sat, Oct 22 2016 6:15 PM

So here's another thread among many where someone (I) am asking a question about the Master Control Panel 5500.

My problem is: The radio button is stuck. The remote constantly broadcasts to turn on the radio function and nothing else.

I bought the MCP used, and after opening it up, it's obvious that someone has been messing with it. There was a piece of black tape over the spot on the board where the radio button is suppose to contact, and the "bubble button" is missing completely.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Full photo album found here: http://s934.photobucket.com/user/beitie/slideshow/Audio%20Equipment/Bang%20%20Olufsen%20MCP

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/KnNXIOYf6mU

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Beitie
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Answered (Verified) Beitie replied on Sun, Jan 22 2017 12:13 AM
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Thanks to Peter, I now have a fully working Beomaster 5500 again, and a fully working Master Control Panel 5500 also.

I took my equipment up to him today and he was able to fix my mute relay issue. Also, we pulled out the MCP and gave it a good look over, and he found a spot where some battery acid had wrecked a trace on the board. With a little extra soldering and some jumpers, it's now fully working like it should be :)

Thanks to everyone on these forums, it's been a huge help!

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chartz
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chartz replied on Sat, Oct 22 2016 7:47 PM

I say, scrap an old TV remote and get the missing part from it! 

Jacques

Beitie
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Beitie replied on Sat, Oct 22 2016 8:29 PM

That would be a good start, yes. I like that idea.

However, I think the problem is deeper than that. Even with the button removed from the MCP, and black tape covering the push pad, it still constantly spams the radio function.

I'm not really great at putting YouTube vids into my posts, but I'll try it again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnNXIOYf6mU

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Sun, Oct 23 2016 2:46 PM

The center pad is normally covered by the small springy bronze plate.
What happens if the black tape isn't touching the center pad of the Radio button?

And what's that orange powder-looking stuff? Something spilled? Acidic?

Martin

Beitie
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Beitie replied on Mon, Oct 24 2016 2:52 AM

So far I've tried the MCP with the black tape over the pad, and with out the tape entirely. I've also cleaned the contact pad with electrical cleaner. Still does the same thing and broadcasts the radio function constantly.

I did not notice orange powered? There are no physical sings of battery leakage. It's pretty clean.

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Mon, Oct 24 2016 5:47 AM

So the contact was probably removed in an attempt to make it stop sending.
The problem must be elsewhere, then.
Try putting an ohmmeter across the contact points, compare with readings from other buttons pads.

It looked like orange powder on the backside of the front panel in your photo. Perhaps it's just light reflections.

Martin

Beitie
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Beitie replied on Thu, Oct 27 2016 3:58 PM

When I used my ohm meter, the circuit did not have any connectivity that I could find. (Display stayed OL). After looking at the picture again, I can see how there is some light that makes things look somewhat orange. Probably due to my camera, it's pretty old for a digital, and the picture quality isn't up to par.

The person who sold it to me texted me back last night saying that he'd refund me that part of the purchase. I've found another on flebay, so I'm just going to give up on this one and try the next.

Since I have the proper Beocord 5500 and a Beogram 5005 now, I have been able to listen to the system, and it does sound good. Though there may be a few small issues with the Beomaster 5500, but I'll post about them when the time comes, and with a proper thread title.

Thanks, Andrew

Beitie
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Beitie replied on Sat, Oct 29 2016 4:13 PM

Update Saturday morning:

The new MCP 5500 came in this morning. I was very happy when I put the batteries in, and it didn't immediately change the input to radio :) All the buttons seemed to work just fine, but I was unable to adjust volume. So I took it down to my workbench, opened it up, and took out the microswitch from the control wheel, and cleaned it with contact cleaner and a toothbrush to get the bristles between the contact points and clean whatever carbon might be on it.

I put it all back together, and started over once again. Still no volume control.

Well, when I was playing around with the other MCP, I was able to adjust the volume from time to time. Not very well, but I could get it to work. So I opened up both, and swapped the microswitch from the bad MCP to the good MCP. Still the same issue. No volume control.

Ugh this is frustrating. I just want to listen to the system, it's been a solid 2 weeks now.

chartz
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chartz replied on Sat, Oct 29 2016 5:07 PM

I'm starting to wonder whether the BM should be at fault, or it's very hard luck indeed.

Jacques

Beitie
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Beitie replied on Sat, Oct 29 2016 11:27 PM

The Beomaster may be at fault for the volume control issues. Admittedly, this is my first Beosystem, and there are things about it that I'll need to learn... So I created a short video to show it off a little and show the issue I'm having. One of the things I've noticed, whenever I get the Master Control Panel's screen on and try to adjust the volume, the screen blinks at me until I stop adjusting the volume. So it very well may be Beomaster related.

I'll put the URL to the YouTube video here... I've been able to edit in YouTube videos, but for some odd reason they never show up in the post, if anyone has a way to help me with that, I'd appreciate it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwAhpEQxQWI

 

chartz
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chartz replied on Sun, Oct 30 2016 10:32 AM

Is anyone nice there over the Pond willing to lend Andrew a Beolink 1000, just to be sure?

Jacques

Beoselecta
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It sounds as though the second MCP (and possibly the first one) needs a new infra red opto coupler on the volume control. When you operate the volume control the microswitch which you have cleaned tells the MCP that you are turning the control and the direction in which you are turning it, the actual control pulses are generated by an alternating black and white printed strip around the outside of the wheel passing in front of the opto coupler. I think what happens is that  dust collects around the wheel and causes a static charge which eventually kills the opto coupler! The part number for the opto coupler is Siemens SFH900-2 (SFH900-1 also works fine) and they're very hard to find! The good news is that they're not hard to replace and if you can't find one I've got one. :-) If you PM me with your address I can send you one. 


Ben

Beitie
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Beitie replied on Sun, Oct 30 2016 2:25 PM

I see what you are saying Beoselecta. Maybe before I have one sent to me I should try to swap the one off the bad MCP to the good one. The good one did have some dust and debris in it that I cleaned out with a dust can. Also, while it wasn't perfect, the first one could at times get the volume indicator to adjust.

The Opto Coupler, is it the three solder joints that you are pointing at in the picture? Or is it the chip right next to it?

----edit----

After a google search of the Siemens PN, I see the item you are referring to.

Beoselecta
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Hi Andrew, sorry about the slightly vague photo, I couldn't figure out how to post two pictures! Here's a picture of the other side of the board (yes, it's the three solder points I'm pointing at). While it's certainly worth trying the one from the other MCP I've got a feeling you might find that it's shot as well. From your description of how you could sometimes get it to work, it sounds like it's failing too! They do go bad quite regularly, I've just finished refurbishing four MCP's and three of them needed new opto couplers!


Ben

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Here's another picture from the front this time.


Ben

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