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Beogram 3000 (type 5228) runs fast

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Peter
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Peter posted on Tue, May 3 2016 2:47 AM
Hi. I received a Beogram 3000 type 5228 from the early 70's that runs too fast. I received this beauty in exchange for fixing a Sansui receiver for a friend.

Peter-

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Peter
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Peter replied on Tue, May 3 2016 2:53 AM
With the thumb wheel timing adjuster as loose as it goes I'm still getting speeds of 35+ and when I tighten it I get speeds around 40.

I cleaned and oiled the motor.

Put rubber conditioner and wiped down the 'idler?' wheel rubber which looks good. I tried to loosen the cone coming up from the motor and push it down to allow the wheel to move up higher and have less pressure to let it slow down some. If I'm understanding this function.

Peter-

Peter
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Peter replied on Tue, May 3 2016 2:58 AM
If I put the right amount of pressure on the speed thumb wheel I can hold it to maintain a speed of 33... But on examination the wheel doesn't move any lower.

I tried stretching the belt, which the previous owner was unsure if it was the right belt, by stretching it around a large Dutch oven and filling it with boiling water and letting it sit for a few hours but that did nothing.

Is there any thing else I can try before trying to buy a new belt?

Peter-

Søren Mexico
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Check the tongue that lift the idler wheel up and down, I repaired on like this. And check here for the whole thread

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Peter
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Peter replied on Tue, May 3 2016 2:46 PM
Right on Søren! Here is what my tongue looks like

How thick was the plastic you used? It looks like it is just a bit higher sitting than the rivets from your pictures. Also, was it a rigid or soft plastic?

Thanks for sharing that thread, lots of very helpful information. I'm enjoying working on this era of equipment right now.

Peter-

Søren Mexico
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Your arm doesnt look too bad, just dirty, The position of the idler wheel in your pic is just about where I have mine with correct speed adjusted, but it looks like the idler wheel is pressed very hard against the motor pulley, I still have the original belt and it is quiet loose, but working OK, also check the whole drive mech. it has to move lightly in all directions (dismantle, clean and lubricate)

My plastic piece is around 1,5 mm thick, normally there is a round fiber disc attached

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Peter
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Peter replied on Tue, May 3 2016 3:30 PM
Is there suppose to be more than the copper plate? The little nub in the hole is rotten and I can't really tell what it use to be made of? Here is a shot of it wiped off and the little nub.

I'm in the middle of the thorough clean and lube, I like this stage. It all seems to move pretty freely but with the excessive pressure on the idle wheel could that be a too tight of belt?

Peter-

Peter
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Peter replied on Tue, May 3 2016 3:38 PM
Round fiber disk. Reread, got it.

Peter-

Søren Mexico
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Mine tongue was totally worn down, in your case I would find a fiber disc or hard nylon washer and epoxy it. with my belt attached there is no visible deformation on the idler wheel, so you may have a belt problem

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Peter
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Peter replied on Tue, May 3 2016 11:06 PM
Thank you Søren for all your timely help!

Felt tipped:

The speed control still needs to be as loose as possible but now speeds in the upper 33 to low 34 are maintained and are not noticed by my amateurs ear. Will follow up with a report after I order a new belt. But for now we are in operation!

Carlos Santana agrees.

It sure looks big next to the Beomaster 4000.

Peter-

Peter
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Peter replied on Sun, Oct 16 2016 4:51 PM

So, 4 months later this BG3000 still plays too fast and before I drop some dollars on a really nice SP12 repair I want to get this properly fixed. New belt from Martin which fits amazing!

Doing some reading and it seems my problem is that this is a 50hz deck in a 60hz country. I was reading this amazing post by Soren Mexico, http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/1666/14226.aspx#14226
and I wonder if this will work for me too?
If I just pull my belt drive wheel and have someone 3D print me one that is 20% smaller would that work?

Peter-

Søren Mexico
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Yes this will work, my 1202 has been working ever since, no problems with the speed what so ever and the motor works at normal temp, even after 3-4 hours continued playing.

When doing the 3D dimension change make sure you only change the 20% on the diameter.

Good luck

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

Peter
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Peter replied on Sun, Oct 16 2016 5:47 PM
Thanks for the response Søren, very good advice- I would have overlooked that. I have a math teacher friend who is looking for 3D printer assignments for his students.

Peter-

Peter
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Peter replied on Sun, Oct 16 2016 5:58 PM
Søren, how did you remove the shaft from the original?

Peter-

Søren Mexico
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Measure and note the position then just bang it out, it is a press fit.

The original wheel is made of 2 steel plates fitted to the center of aluminum.

To get the right position on the shaft I turned the center top down to the difference between the outside of the belt track to the shaft center

Instead of the 2 pegs I made a "skirt" on the wheel, the idler wheel center has to enter freely in the skirt

Make sure you get the drive pin hole in the right position, the hole is bigger than the pin so + - 0.2 mm is OK

I drilled out the center hole to the same dimension as the shaft, with polyamide this gives a press fit, after tests I just secured it with 2 drops of super glue after cleaning with acetone

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

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