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Beomaster 2000 Typ 2801 Restoration or Parts ??

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ALF
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ALF posted on Sat, Apr 15 2017 4:37 AM

Hi everyone,

a new "treasure" has arrived....35 Euros and the big question is:

restoring or keeping it for parts ? I have done a foto shoot as a first impression, so bear with me there will

be a number of pics uploaded !


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ALF
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ALF replied on Sat, Apr 15 2017 5:15 AM

The BIG remaining question is:

is it worth restoring or keeping it for parts ?

I can not go back to the original MJ3001/2501 power transistors as the collector rods are missing, which begs the question how much performance/sound impact that has ?

obviously the usual capacitor replacement job, fixing the loose buttons issue - thank god they are at least present !!

and fixing the pre-set trimmers ???

any suggestions or comments you want to share with me before I recall the cleaning lady or book a flight to follow her ?!

cheers

ALF

wh

solderon29
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This could become a "hair shirt" type of restoration?

These Beomaster's come from a sad period in B&O history,where the company were hopelessly trying to compete with far superior product from the far east.

All the usual B&O key's are there of course,innovation,styling and sound quality,but the build was rather flimsy to say the least.

The operating buttons were simply glued in place with epoxy,and usually flew off due to shock from the spring loaded switching mechanism.

We glued them back,but it was quite tricky to get them all lined up as the design demanded.The wide use too,of fragile plastic moulding's means a risk of vital locating lug's snapping off and wotnot

It looks as though your Beomaster is "original",ie very little work has been done over the year's.They look like the correct output transistors too.

You will need to recap of course,and replace oxidised preset's etc.The complex function selector switches will be noisy and intermittent due to oxidatiuon too, I expect.

If you have time and patience,go for it.You know the reward if you have restored other B&O?

Regards,

Nick

 

Steffen
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ALF:

this was obviously the top-side - woodwork is intact, just needs a bit of oil to freshen up.

what is not so nice are the loose buttons......

 

The Loose buttons will be the easiest part of your repair on this beauty. They were simply glued to the switches underneath. So simply glue them Again - the tricky part, however is to align them, so that they are flush to the surface...

(edit: Oh, I just saw that "solderon29" already mentioned that)...

ALF
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ALF replied on Thu, Apr 20 2017 12:59 AM

Thank you -- you might be quite right here......I will leave that for last !

some progress can be reported: 

pre-set trimmers have been restored to working condition, all finger wheels were loose.

Dial and ON lights shine again as well as the dial rider, meaning the big tuning wheel can scan the stations again.

idle current has been reset to 10mV

first road block:

the tuner only functions is Mono ! Whether this is the IF signal too low ??

I checked all associated voltages on the fm board according to the circuit diagram but no Stereo light and no tuning indicator lights either ??

in the meantime I shall study the tuner description in the SM again but perhaps someone has any suggestions or clues to provide ?

and yes, I did check the bulbs - they all seem fine ?!

There is also the question about a power transistor change in the past - perhaps Martin would know ?

the manual has MJ2501/3001 listed as the original ones but fitted are TIP141 and 146 ??

 

cheers - ALF

solderon29
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I think the output transistors are probably correct,and a production alternative to MJ2501/3001.They are a similar beast to the ones in the spec electrically,but there may be changes to other components on the board to accommodate them.You may be making unnecessary work for yourself by replacing them?

It would be prudent to replace the idling current presets of course ,as they are notorious for causing output stage instability and "spontaneous combustion".The caps as you know,are a must to replace too.

I don't remember having much trouble with the tuner section.The "usual suspects" of course are tantalum bead capacitors,particularly in the stereo decoder,or anything that will reduce the if bandwidth etc.

We used to glue the buttons back on,after clearing all residue of the original epoxy away.You can make spacers from thin card,to space the buttons apart from each other by the correct distance.Then use slow curing Araldite to glue them on.Use a  couple of weighted small square dowels across the buttons to prevent fore/aft rocking as they set,then leave overnight to set.

Fiddly,but rewarding to get the buttons all lined up.

You've made a good start on it sir.

Regards,

Nick

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