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Restoring a Beomaster 1000

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Jeppe
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Jeppe posted on Thu, Nov 17 2016 12:48 AM

This is my first post and I am almost completely new to BO! Having had some Tandberg and diverse Danish vintage equipment, I recently has become very interested in BO as well.

I recently bought two Beomaster 1000's. One with white keys and one with black. Both need restoration. I really want to make these work. I am specially interested in the earlier version with germanium transistors.

I opened the white one up today, and it seems a transistor was burned (marked AC128,3). There was black dust above it on the wood cabinet inside. I wonder if this is possible to replace..? Is there any hope?
There may be other problems as well, I don't know yet. But this seems serious.

Where do you find more rare spare parts for your vintage machines?

How wonderful that there was a little envelope on the inside with schematics inside it!


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chartz
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Answered (Verified) chartz replied on Thu, Nov 17 2016 6:25 PM
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Welcome to Beoworld!

And congratulations on your introduction to B&O's wonderful vintage products.

These Beomasters are nice items.

I for one always find the components I need on eBay. The aforementioned transistors are indeed listed there. Do have a look!

Those AC 128 germanium transistors are (were) quite common and not very difficult to find. There were tons of them used in old radios and tape-recorders.

Good luck!

Jacques

Søren Mexico
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When I start a new project, I go to Martin (Dillen on this forum) first of all, he can provide most of whats needed, then onto E-bay as Chartz

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

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Dillen
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Dillen replied on Fri, Apr 28 2017 6:36 AM

The load is what is loading the power supply = What the power supply supplies, amplifiers, tuner etc..
Which type and build series is this Beomaster?

Martin

Jeppe
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Jeppe replied on Fri, Apr 28 2017 1:47 PM

It says on the label on the back:
Nr 1000 - Type 2314 Serie 01
P3 No 22124

I do not have a manual for this precise version. I use a manual for 2302-2304.

I am a bit unsure about measuring the points J and K actually. I think I figued out point I (the AD149's).
The points are marked in the schematics, but then locating an appropriate point on the real board isn't that clear to me.
For point J I tried to measure at the AD149V, and I got a reasonable measurement of 32V, this I believe is adjusted with the larger potentiometer. But for point K I am unsure of where to measure and what to do if the measurement is off.

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Fri, Apr 28 2017 2:19 PM

Thanks. Essential details. No muting switch then.

First thing: Get the right manual.
It's not fair to doubt what's fitted in one version based on a servicemanual for a different version.

Martin

Jeppe
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Jeppe replied on Fri, Apr 28 2017 11:36 PM

Martin Thumbs Up

Oh ***.. The transistors are AC151 and AC153.
Can this be the problem.. The specs seem relatively similar but then perhaps not replaceable with AC128's..

Manual downloaded from hifiengine.com, excellent site.

AC151 and AC153 will be ordered on ebay. Will report the progress then, will it work..? See the exciting next episode of BM1000 Maniacs!

Jeppe
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Jeppe replied on Sun, May 21 2017 4:24 PM

I have managed to make one of my BM1000's sing again! I have both a black and a white version which I am working on at the same time, although lately my posts was about the troublesome black version. Work on this black one remains to be completed. But the white Beomaster 1000 now produces sound!

What I probably need to do on this BM1000 is adjustments. I am still a bit unsure of how (=where) to measure I,J and K (in the schematics). My schematics show the target values and points on the drawing, but where to actually do this in the real physical machine is not 100% clear to me.
If anyone would care to help and give me some hints to this I would be most grateful. It would be a tragedy if I ruined it now after all this work.

If someone has any other tips for 'after care' and adjustment I will gladly listen.

(I have prepared myself with very fine micro hooks to connect to the multimeter, to avoid shorting things)

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